After leaving Jerusalem we head to Jordan to discover the Lost City of Petra. We enter Jordan at the Port City of Aqaba. Aqaba is a wonderful, overlooked jewel on the Red Sea coast. From here we join a group tour to Petra with a stop at Rum Wadi on the drive back to Aqaba. This jaunt will consume the entirety of one full day.
The landscape changes every few miles as we drive north on the road from Aqaba to Petra. Bedouin herds and tall, dramatic cliffs are everywhere. Petra is one of the most famous archaeological sites in the world.
Petra: the Rose City
As we approached Petra, in the distance we see the magnificent ruins of the ancient city slowly emerge from the rock faces. Petra is a stunning example of ancient engineering. It is a city built entirely out of rock carved by the Nabateans more than 2000 years ago. The Nabateans were a nomad Arab tribe that first appeared in this valley during the 6th century BCE. The ruins are so famous that it is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the New Seven Wonders of the World. The crusaders must have seen the ruins. The ruins, however, were not officially re-discovered until a 27 year old Swiss, by the name of Johan Burchhardt, found them in 1812.
Massive Rock Walls
Arriving at the site headquarters we see, of course, twenty other buses. Once through the entrance we walk for about 1 mile through a Siq, which means a narrow gorge, into the the heart of Petra. As we walk through the Siq, we see fabulous colors on the sandstone walls, with different layers of rock creating rainbow stripes. Where the Sig narrows it creates a sensation of being wrapped by high walls made of natural rock.
As we reach the end of the Siq, we see the most famous monument: the Treasury. The Treasury, is a temple that is entirely carved out of the rock. Until recently visitors could venture inside. It held the treasures gained by the Nabateans from their trade routes in ancient times. The sheer scale of the rock structure is awe-inspiring. Bedouins gathered in front of the Treasury offering the pet camels for rides to anyone so daring.
Feats of Engineering
Patti and I explore Petra for the entire day. We do not want to miss any of the sites. Our adventure takes us past the Colonnade Street to the Great Temple. The Temple is an enormous ancient ruin with stunning columns and intricate carvings. We later went on to see the Roman Theater, that could seat up to 8,000 people during its time. The Tombs, and the Monastery could also be viewed if distance and time were not an issue. The Monastery is considered one of Petra’s highest points and requires a challenging climb but offers fantastic views of the valley as a reward.
Other notable sights include the High Place of Sacrifice, where rituals once took place, and the impressively preserved tombs of the city’s former kings, including the Urn Tomb and the Silk Tomb.
Our guide regales us with tales of how Petra was once a thriving city, home to more than 20,000 people. He also explains how its decline was hastened by earthquakes, floods and the shifting of the ancient trade routes.
Being completely worn out I opt for a motorized miniature taxi ride back to the entrance, enjoying the cool breeze and wonderful sights along the way. Patti, being more physically capable, walks the one mile plus back to the entrance.
Pictures of Petra can only give you an idea of how spectacular and majestic the buildings of Petra are. Seeing the sites in person is the only way you can get a full appreciation of how incredible the construction must have been 2000 years ago.
Wadi Rum: The Valley of the Moon
Wadi Rum is about half the way back to Aqaba. The first thing we notice as we entered Wadi Rum is the vast silence. There is no sound except for the occasional chirping of a bird or the soft wind blowing sand around. The valley seems frozen in time . It appears unchanged for thousands of years. We see no life, only towering cliffs and red rock formations. Wadi Rum is so otherworldly that it was used as a filming site for the many movies including Lawrence of Arabia, The Martian, and Dune. By the way, Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade was filmed in Petra.
Indiana Jones Redux
We join with other travelers for an open pickup-truck tour of the valley with Bedouin guides. They take us to see the most magnificent rock formations in the area. One of the most impressive formations, and probably the most well-known, is the Seven Pillars of Wisdom. Our guide tells us the name is linked to the Seven Pillars of Wisdom book written by T. E. Lawrence, or Lawrence of Arabia. He spent time in Wadi Rum during the Arab Revolt against the Ottoman Empire.
We travel through the valley, stopping every once in a while to climb the rocks or take pictures of the scenery. It is a different experience because we are completely surrounded by these massive rock formations. The land around us glows with an orange hue due to the sun’s reflection. The sunset, like so many other in the Middle East, is spectacular. The dust in the air creates the reddest reds and the brightest oranges in the sunset.
We eventually reach the Bedouin campsite where we join others for a traditional Bedouin pit roast dinner. The camp is located in the middle of the desert, surrounded by sand and rocks, and away from noise and lights. It is peaceful and offers an excellent opportunity to soak up the tranquility of the surrounding desert as night
descend.
Tranquility:
The drive back to Aqaba from Wadi Rum is approximately one hour. The bus is very quiet. It has been a very long day. The rugged beauty of the desert, the ancient ruins, and the symphony of colors make this a very unique trip. There is nothing like the sheer tranquility of the desert explored in Wadi Rum or Petra’s impressive engineering. Both of which leave an indelible impression on the minds of all who visit. For those wishing to experience a similar adventure consider staying at the Hyatt Regency Aqaba Ayala in Aqaba. The accommodations are extremely comfortable and very convenient, with uncompromising views of the Red Sea and its beaches.
