Perched on a Jungle Hillside

Elephant Camp

Luxury Resort Redefined

This Elephant Camp is a fifteen room resort deep in the jungles of Northern Thailand with no walls, no tv, and no air conditioning in any of the public spaces. That is to say, the common comfort descriptions are lacking. The tents, however, are generously spread out, one to the other, along a brick paved, winding, hillside trail. The unobstructed views of the neighboring South East Asia countries of Laos and Myanmar (formerly Burma) are surreal with the early morning mist rising from the jungles below. Meanwhile, the evening sunsets are spectacular too, with birds of all colors and sizes winging their way back to their nests. This entire area was the once the thriving Opium capital of the world, 550 miles directly north of Bangkok and a mere 110 mlles from the Chinese border.

The description above is not normally associated with a World renowned, Number One Resort. It is all of that and More!

Our NEW, World Favorite Resort was one of the first tented camps that also incorporates animal conservation and protection. It is a safe and happy home for elephants saved from the streets of Bangkok and elsewhere in Thailand.

Favorite Resort/Hotel in the World, Ever

The Four Seasons Elephant Camp in Chiang Sean Thailand was first opened in the early 1990s. Chiang Sean is about 40 miles northeast of Chiang Rai. Meanwhile, this luxurious and unique escape offers guests an incredible glamping experience.

The Tented Camps original owner, Bill Heinecke, along with the inspirational talents of the resort’s designer/ architect Bill Bensley, created one of the best resorts the world has ever witnessed. This fact is supported by the Conde Nast Organization selecting it as the Number 1 hotel/resort several times, and at one point, three years in a row.

Elephant Camp becomes a Four Seasons Resort

In 2006 the Elephant Camp was rebranded as a Four Seasons Award Winning Resort offering their guests the unrivaled level of care and service that you come to expect from the more traditional Four Seasons Resorts.

Night time arrivals at the Burma Bar
Arrivals at the Burma Bar during the night!

Just because the Elephant Camp is remotely located doesn’t mean the services and facilities are not world class. Each tent has daily cleaning and resupply. Each has a fully stocked bar and a Nespresso machine. Turn down service happens each night when we are dining. Since dining is anytime from 7pm to 10pm we are not sure how they know when we are away. We selected the tent nearest to the Burma Bar for obvious reasons. Even though we were the closest to the Burma Bar, we were quite a distance from the rest of the camp and 64 long steps up from the bar to our tent. Some nights it was a good thing we had a ride and an escort with a lantern showing us the way home. We don’t get that service in any other hotel in which we have stayed.

Getting to the Elephant Camp

Our Long Tail Boat approaches the Elephant Camp Dock on the Ruak River
Our Long Tail Boat approaching the Elephant Camp Dock

Once in Chiang Rai you travel by auto 40 miles to Chiang Sean. In Chiang Sean you board a waiting long-tailed river craft on the Mekong River. In a matter of no time at all we powered up the Mekong to a tributary, the Ruak River, that separates Thailand from Myanmar. Minutes later we arrived at the Tented Camps Dock where a welcoming party greets you with fresh moist towels and flutes of cold champagne. This was to be my first test of how well my trainer had prepared me for the trip. I looked up at the twenty five steep steps to get to the ceremonial arrival GONG.

 

The West Facing Deck of the Ning Yao Restaurant
The West Facing Deck of the Ning Yao Restaurant

We made it and pounded the gong announcing to all our arrival. A few more steps and we had arrived at the Ning Yuo restaurant and several other resort facilities.

The Elephant Camp Experience

Our Land Rover and Driver awaits us
Our Land Rover and Driver awaits us
Jungle pathways go up, down and all around!
Jungle Pathways

After the welcoming activities it was time to be escorted to our tent. We climbed into a 1969 rugged and well restored, vintage Land Rover. We were off down a single lane, winding, one kilometer road through the jungle canopy. There is also another newer Land Rover that shares the transportation duties. It’s a 1975 version. Taking in the gorgeous views of the bamboo jungles, listening to the sounds of nature. Birdsongs and fresh air was an absolute treat for the senses. The driver let us out at the Burma Bar. Our trek up to our tent was not so bad. My physical pre-conditioning had paid off. Thank you, Jessica!

The Lodgings in the Elephant Camp

Each Tented space in the Elephant Camp was larger than we had imagined. Our tent was very complete with a king sized bed, a very large claw foot tub, two individual sinks set in custom made camp style vanities. There was even a well stocked bar with a mini refrigerator off in one corner. Amazingly, fresh camp made cookies appeared each morning in a sealed mason jar. Perfect to have each morning with the coffee made in our own Nespresso machine. This is the right way to go camping.

The Tents are what you might envision seeing in a 19th century adventure expedition with handcrafted furniture, hardwood floors, an outdoor shower and a traditional canvas roof. A private wooden hot-tub on the outdoor deck looked out over the Golden Triangle. In the early morning or the early evening it is the best place to soak in the scenery and listen to birdsongs. From our tent you could also hear the chantings of nearby Bhuddist monks. The sounds of birds, the rustle of leaves and the gentle swoosh of the swaying bamboo evaporated any stress still remaining from the every-day, western world living. Then there were the star-studded skies at night. Incredible! This is a truly 24-hour immersive jungle adventure.

Exploring

Once unpacked we set out to get the lay of the land in the resort. We had several options to get around, bikes, Land Rovers or by walking the hillside trails. We chose the trails.

The two sides of the Elephant Camp are connected by this suspension bridge
Suspension bridge connects the Elephant Camp

The main trail, alongside which the fifteen tents are located, is about two kilometers from the beginning to the end. The beginning is at the main gathering place in front of the Ning Yuo restaurant and the camp dock. Here is where the open air front desk, the restaurant/kitchen, the Wine Cellar, the main pool with loungers is located.

The other end of the trail is at the Resorts High Peak with a raised, viewing platform. Half way between the two ends is the Burma Bar, Camp Store, the SunDowner Porch, the Elephant bathing pool and the Explorer’s Lodge.

Explorer’s Lodge

This is the exquisite Explorer's Lodge
Exquisite Explorer’s Lodge

Keep in mind we did not stay in the Explorer’s Lodge. It’s most often booked by two couples traveling together. We, unfortunately do not know another couple who are as adventurous as we are. It is the only accommodation that had walls instead of canvas sides. The two separate living quarters are each complete with beds, bath and other necessities. The Lodge also has a full deck and dining area in between. A very large infinity pool overlooks the jungles below.

The Ning Yao Restaurant

Ning Yao Restaurant specializes in Thai, Laotian, Burmese cooking, and of course western cuisine for those not adventurous with their dining selections. Breakfast, lunch and diner is served in this open air facility. The first day of our stay I opted for western fare. Patti enjoyed the Thai selections so much I converted by the next night.

The Burma Bar

The Burma Bar is half way between the Nong Yao Restaurant and the Camp’s Peak. Sunset at the Burma Bar is a must. The skies erupt in a rapturous display of color as the sun sets over the horizon into neighboring Myanmar. There is no better way to enjoy this show than with a cocktail in hand at the Camp’s aptly named bar. Opium is the name of one intriguing cocktail. The drink features white rum, Captain Morgans Dark rum, creme de cacao, fresh lime juice and coke light. It is delightful.

The Wine Cellar

Our young host prepares for the Wine Tasting of local fare
Our young host prepares for the Wine Tasting of local fare

Wine and cheese make perfect companions. That is not a secret to us. The Elephant Camp takes it a step further in that their “cellar” is actually a wood and thatched, bee hive stye building. Their wine and cheeses feature locally produced selections. They really are quite enjoyable. Our young host introduced us to one of the local brands from the Monsoon Valley Vineyard. The vineyard was once home to an elephant corral. The wine and cheese tasting also introduced us to a selection of local dried fruits including strawberry, mango, and Phule pineapple.

The Spa

A perfect day sometimes includes some time on a swing
A perfect day for some swing time

Off the main path, near the suspension bridge, is a sign pointing the way to the Camp’s tree-top fringed spa. Patti set aside time for sessions on two consecutive days at the secluded Spa. The walk from the bridge winds through the lush jungle with nothing in sight except for signs along the way that announce “don’t give up” and “you are almost there”. To walk through the green canopy with the sun filtering through and the only sounds you hear are from the birds overhead and the rustling leaves in the trees conveys a feeling of total sensory awareness and calm. She felt so relaxed she decided to rest a while before heading back to our tent.

The Elephants

Two fiends show off their hairdos
Two friends show off their hairdos

This is why we are here. Patti has had this Elephant Camp Resort on her bucket list for years. This year we finally made it. To be able to engage with an elephant in its habitat is an unbelievable experience. There have been as many as 38 elephants here at the Tented Camps at one time. Currently there are eight, ranging in age from the middle thirties to the early sixties. All of these elephants have been rescued from unfortunate beginnings where they toiled long days doing extremely hard work. Some were just abandoned to fend for themselves. They, along with their handler, a mahout, live at the Tented Camps in their own nature preserve of fields, forests and the Ruak River.

These two elephants have arrived for their breakfast of bananas and cucumbers
Breakfast of bananas and cucumbers

The elephants enjoy doing elephant things which most of the time means foraging and eating. Under the ever watchful eye of their mahout they seem to be very comfortable being around a small group of people of six or less. We were able to hand feed them, bath them and walk with them down to the river where they enjoyed a swim. Every morning from 8am to 9am two of them showed up at the Ning Yao Restaurant for bananas and cucumbers.

Bill Heinecke, Bill Bensley and the Four Seasons Management Team deserve accolades and praise for their foresight, tenacity and support over the years. I know, I know! They have probably made some money along the way too. That’s OK. They have brought to light the plight of the Asian Elephants and how the hospitality industry can work better with nature while still providing an enjoyable, luxury experience for their guests.

I almost forgot. There is air conditioning in each of the Camp Tents !

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