Bison eating grass in American Landscape. Yellowstone National Park.

Yellowstone and More

When the Yellowstone TV series started in 2018 we were determined to someday explore Wyoming and Montana. We have had a few starts and stops in the actual execution of this journey because of Covid and active wildfires. They postponed our adventure to Yellowstone each year for the past 4 years.

Each of those postponements prompted us to look beyond Yellowstone. Other national parks and points of interest started to creep in as possible add ons to our itinerary. Since we are now traveling after retirement we can spend more time on the trip too. We are now not just looking at Yellowstone. Our epic journey now starts in South Dakota. It then winds across Wyoming and heads north through Montana. It finishes in Whitefish Montana with a brief jog into Alberta Canada.

As planned, this road trip took 17 days and 2,100 miles of spectacular scenery. Rather than the Series “Yellowstone” this was now more like the Duttons in “1883” as they fled from Texas, though the Great Plains, to Montana.

We saw so much and met so many wonderful people along the way it is impossible to describe it in great detail. The greatest take-a-ways from our trip were the reasons each site came to be, the why’s and how’s of the various parks. Below are the most incredible highlights of our journey.

Badlands National Park

The Badlands Landscape
The Badlands Landscape

The rugged beauty of the Badlands lies in its sharply eroded buttes and pinnacles, carved over millennia by the forces of wind and water. The Park did not become a National Park until 1978. It incorporates almost 250,000 acres including thousands of acres of prairie as well as a few ghosts towns such as the town of Scenic and the town of Interior.

Geology Rock Formations Badlands National Park South Dakota
Geology Rock Formations Badlands National Park South Dakota

At night, the Badlands sky offers unparalleled stargazing opportunities because of its remote location and minimal light pollution.

Mt Rushmore

Sculpted memorials at Mount Rushmore against blue cloudy sky
Sculpted memorials at Mount Rushmore against blue cloudy sky

As we approached Mount Rushmore on US Highway 16, we were greeted by the faces of George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Abraham Lincoln, and Theodore Roosevelt high up on an outcropping of a mountain.

Mount Rushmore was conceived by Doane Robinson in 1923 as a way to attract tourism to South Dakota. Initially the faces were to have been from the old West, like Lewis and Clark.

The actual sculpting began in the early 1920s, by Gutzon Borglum. Over the next 20 years the colossal sculptures took shape into what we now see.

Mount Rushmore as seen from below
Mount Rushmore as seen from below

Originally there was to be a secret room called the “Hall of Records” located behind Lincoln’s head for the important documents and historical artifacts. However, the idea was never fully realized and the room still remains unfinished.

Crazy Horse Memorial

Front View of Crazy Horse Memorial
Front View of Crazy Horse Memorial

The Crazy Horse Memorial is un paralleled because of its sheer size and grandeur. Towering to a height of more than 560 feet when completed, it will be the largest mountain carving in the world.

Crazy Horse Monument in Custer County
Crazy Horse Monument in Custer County

The massive sculpture, still a work in progress, depicts Crazy Horse mounted on his horse, pointing into the distance with a gaze of determination and pride. The monument, started in June of 1948 by Korczak Ziolkowski, is not government funded. It depends solely on private donations

Grand Teton National Park

Sunrise view of Teton Range reflecting in a calm Snake River
Sunrise view of Teton Range reflecting in a calm Snake River

The region surrounding the Teton Range is a land of towering peaks, rugged canyons, crystalline lakes, and abundant wildlife. It was relatively unknown until the early 20th century. It was a true wilderness paradise.

A much photographed barn in Grand Teton Mountains
A much photographed barn in Grand Teton Mountains

Realizing the significance of the area, John D. Rockerfeller began acquiring the parcels of land, eventually amassing thousands of acres. He donated the land to the government, urging it to establish a national park. It was not until 1929 that President Calvin Coolidge declared the area a national park.

Some of the incredible treasures in this area include the 600 year old Hidden Patriarch Tree, historic ranches such as the Menor’s Ferry Historic District, Bar BC Dude Ranch, and Mormon Row Historic District and the Elk Antler Archways near the park entrance from Jackson.

Elk Antler Archway
Elk Antler Archway
View of Old Faithful Eruption
View of Old Faithful Eruption

Yellowstone

Yellowstone National Park is not the most visited national park in the US but you would never know that when we were there. There were families and cars  everywhere.

It is, however, the first national park created in 1872 by President Grant.

The park is like no other. You will step into a land of wonder, a place where Mother Nature showcases her incredible prowess. Magnificent geysers, such as the iconic Old Faithful, shoot columns of scalding water into the sky, captivating visitors with their rhythmic eruptions.

We witnessed an array of colorful hot springs, such as the Grand Prismatic Spring, that seem like vibrant pools of liquid rainbows with their intense hues created by bacteria. The geothermal marvels of the Norris Geyser Basin, Mammoth Hot Springs, and many other areas left us in awe.

Grand Prismatic Spring Yellowstone
Grand Prismatic Spring Yellowstone

Everywhere we ventured we encountered an incredible rich diversity of wildlife from majestic elk and bisons to otters.

Bison crosswalks are not well marked
Bison crosswalks are not well marked

Yellowstone National Park is also home to the Yellowstone Caldera, one of the largest active volcanic systems in the world.

Glacier National Park

Going to the Sun Highway at Logan Pass in Glacier National Park
Going to the Sun Highway at Logan Pass in Glacier National Park

We have visited at least 15 of the US National Parks. Without a doubt Glacier is the absolute most beautiful. This is a place of rugged beauty, towering peaks, shimmering glaciers, and abundant wildlife.

Glacier Park Peaks
Glacier Park Peaks

In the late 19th century, as settlers began to explore the untamed lands of western Montana, they encountered a landscape that took their breath away. The massive glaciers, pristine lakes, and alpine meadows inspired awe and reverence among those fortunate enough to witness their grandeur.

Lake McDonald in Glacier National Park
Lake McDonald in Glacier National Park

Glacier became a US National Park on May 11, 1910. The park, encompasses over a million acres of unspoiled wilderness.

As we explored the park’s trails and roads, we became immersed in a diverse ecosystem brimming with life. We were told to be on the lookout for majestic grizzly bears, agile mountain goats, playful otters, elusive wolves and the majestic bald eagle.

We did drive on a portion of the Going-to-the-Sun Road, a marvel of engineering, that took us on a scenic journey through Glacier’s heartland. This iconic road, hugging mountainsides and crossing alpine meadows, is a testament to human innovation and a gateway to stunning vistas.

Whitefish, Montana

Main Street Whitefish, Montana
Main Street Whitefish, Montana

Whitefish, Montana is nestled near the majestic peaks of the Rockies. We were told that Whitefish got its name from early settlers who noticed a particular species of fish that thrived in its pristine waters—the mountain whitefish. These fish, known for their silvery appearance, exquisite flavor, and resilience in the cold mountain streams, became synonymous with the area.

We were very surprised of what we saw when entering the Town’s Main Street area. The downtown area exudes a charming and welcoming atmosphere, with its picturesque streets lined with unique boutiques, art galleries, and cozy cafes.

One of the main attractions of Whitefish is its proximity to the stunning, pristine Whitefish Lake. Its crystal-clear waters offer activities for everyone from a day of boating, kayaking, swimming, or simply relaxing on its tranquil shores. The serene beauty of the lake, framed by the rugged peaks of the Rockies, and create memories that will last a lifetime.

All around Whitefish you see the unparalleled beauty of the Rocky Mountains, with their snow-capped peaks, lush valleys, and vibrant wildflowers. The region is also home to an abundance of wildlife, including majestic elk, graceful deer, and the elusive black bear.

Our Trophy Grizzly Bear
Our Trophy Grizzly Bear

In a local store we met up with a towering Grizzly Bear, stuffed of coarse.

Great Plains Drifters

The Duttons have nothing on us. We survived to tell of a great journey through the Northern Great Plains. A journey that can only be experience first hand. All of the pictures ever taken of this incredible section of our Country do not do it justice.

Our Odyssey began here in Wall,South Dakota
Our Odyssey began here in Wall, South Dakota

You just cannot appreciate the wide open spaces, the towering mountains, the crystal clear lakes until you see it in person.

 

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